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The Greek Capital

Craggy coves and beautiful beaches make up the resplendent mix that is the coastline of Athens. Thus at the end of an autumn day, I found myself with a rather agreeable question: where to head to relax bones still longing for a last splash of summer sun. For this city offers something that many continental destinations cannot: a shoreline of over 60 kilometers featuring beaches many a Greek island would covet.

During the off-season, the shores of Attica still have a strong appeal, as I discovered when taking a dip into a fading sun across the Vouliagmeni Bay. For those seeking revitalization in azure seas primed to turn golden as the sun sets, swimming off one of the coastline's accessible or exclusive beaches does not disappoint.

With sea salt still on my skin, I sat at a local tavern, a tavern whose regional cuisine is as excellent as the breathtaking panorama of the inlet it sits on. In a nod to bygone eras, the appetizers is served on large wooden trays.

Athens is as celebrated for its hills as its coastline: natural elevations within view of the Acropolis that make it a rich resource for amblers when temperatures are cooler. For those who want to escape a metropolis that sprawls across almost 200 square miles, these stone formations – holders of fabulous names such as the Nymphs' Hill and the Hill of the Muses – are a must-see.

In my opinion, this historic city is the continent's most soulful and sublime.

If you reach the summit of Mount Lycabettus, the city’s highest point, either on foot or on the funicular rail car, the reward is a spectacular vista of the entire gulf and the islands beyond.

If you want to be in the center, the historic Plaka district remains the ideal location. The traditional Adrian hotel has rooms looking on to the northern face of the Parthenon from about £120 bed and breakfast. In the vicinity, Zorbas is a favourite eatery with residents and serves the juiciest lamb chops. With views of the Acropolis, Athens’ rooftop restaurants are highly evocative and perfect for mild fall nights – for a special experience head to a top restaurant or the award-winning Macris.

Palermo

Believe Neapolitan pizza is the last word in pizza? Think again. In this city they prefer Sicilian pizza, a soft, well-risen rectangle of bread topped with rich, onion-laden tomato sauce and topped with caciocavallo cheese and herbs. Savory, satisfying and cozy, it’s available in shops, stands and carts all over the city (a central street in the old town usually has multiple sellers).

We sample it at a stand on Piazza della Kalsa, near where we’re staying. A local spot often has big lines, but they move quickly as young staff dish out slices of sfincione, as well as arancini and chickpea fritters. There are a few tables under the trees outside, but we dine as we walk into town along narrow Via Alloro. This is a pleasant stroll in autumn but wouldn’t always be in summer. As hot spells rolled over Europe this year, temperatures in Sicily reached 104F in the shade. At the end of July one sunbaked corner reached an unprecedented 158F at the surface.

We wander the city and enjoy how its long history is etched in its streets.

Now, as the climate creep to 75F by mid-afternoon, we can wander the city and savour how its heritage is written in its roads. Walking by historic buildings, and a famous coffee shop, the city’s oldest coffee roastery, we admire the Arab-Norman domes of the 12th-century church of San Cataldo; Piazza Pretoria, with its Renaissance fountain, placed under Spanish rule; and the grand church, built on the site of a ninth-century mosque.

On the way back we take a side trip to the local market, the origins of which also date back over 1,000 years. Some criticize its touristification, but it is still noisy and brilliantly theatrical. Feeling brave, we pause for a traditional spleen sandwich, which is surprisingly OK, with its slightly sweet “meat” balanced by cheese topping. The vendor is especially pleased of his offal specialty but, unfortunately, no amount of seasoning can make those a delight for me.

We’re glad to return to more peaceful the old quarter, the historic district to the east, which was damaged in the second world war and declined for decades before being revitalized this century. a boutique hotel (sea-view doubles from $175 B&B) is a small B&B with lots to see nearby. Up the street is a historic palace, a baroque grand building renovated and relaunched in recently to display the Valsecchi art collection, which includes works by Gilbert & George and pop art icons.

Next day we stroll 10 minutes to Palermo’s Botanical Garden, with its notable multi-trunk fig tree. Birds are chirping loudly as the sun pours down. Soon we’ll be in London, the clocks will go back and winter will start. We relish a final days in the light.

Vienna

While mourning the end of summer and spending time at beach bars and bathing spots on the tributaries of the Danube, I’m now seeking a different color. This city is a metropolis of green spaces and manicured gardens, meadow sweeps and forest zones, which swap their emerald halo for a rusty amber and yellowish tint the Austrians call golden autumn.

I depart from the grandiose architecture and old streets of the historic centre. To the southwest of it, a famous park splays from the magnificent Habsburg summer residence, where the gilt isn’t limited for the interior, and makes its way into corridors of towering bronzed hedgerows and arched tree terraces that go to the bright building.

To the eastern part, in the city’s Prater Park, I walk beneath the chestnut trees of the Hauptallee, an path that’s almost three miles long and ancient. On the border of the park, the retro-styled Superbude Prater hotel (doubles from €78 with breakfast) is a perfectly placed retreat.

In a city with many city gardens (thanks to a long-standing commitment to promoting parks and fostering local culture), the fall brings a feast of fresh produce on menus. Squash soup is the seasonal staple – best eaten in a traditional pub such as the decorated Am Nordpol 3 – and followed with a Wiener Schnitzel.

Vienna is a place of green areas and gardens that change their emerald halo for a golden and warm hue.

Unbeknown to many, Vienna is the sole European capital to grow wine within its urban area, with 700 hectares of vineyards. There are fourteen designated urban paths, known as Stadtwanderwege. Track 1 takes you through the wine country of a district. Relax in a slope Heuriger such as Wieninger am Nussberg, sipping a citrussy white wine with a platter (an assortment of cold cuts and cheese), while soaking up the beautiful urban view.

The days are getting shorter, but now is the ideal moment to wander among Vienna’s grand buildings, museums and historic abodes – a {cultural crop|