The City of Bristol's Backyard Wine Gardens: Grape-Treading Grapes in City Spaces

Each quarter of an hour or so, an older diesel-powered railway carriage arrives at a spray-painted stop. Close by, a law enforcement alarm pierces the near-constant traffic drone. Daily travelers rush by collapsing, ivy-draped garden fences as storm clouds gather.

It is perhaps the last place you expect to find a perfectly formed vineyard. But one local grower has cultivated 40 mature vines heavy with plump purplish grapes on a sprawling allotment situated between a row of historic homes and a commuter railway just north of the city town centre.

"I've noticed people hiding heroin or whatever in the shrubbery," says the grower. "Yet you just get on with it ... and keep tending to your vines."

Bayliss-Smith, 46, a filmmaker who runs a kombucha drinks business, is among several urban winemaker. He's pulled together a loose collective of cultivators who produce wine from several discreet city grape gardens nestled in private yards and allotments across the city. It is sufficiently underground to possess an formal title so far, but the collective's messaging chat is called Grape Expectations.

Urban Vineyards Around the Globe

To date, the grower's allotment is the sole location listed in the Urban Vineyards Association's upcoming global directory, which includes better-known urban wineries such as the 1,800 plants on the hillsides of Paris's renowned Montmartre neighbourhood and over three thousand vines overlooking and inside Turin. The Italian-based charitable organization is at the vanguard of a initiative re-establishing urban grape cultivation in historic wine-producing countries, but has identified them throughout the globe, including cities in East Asia, Bangladesh and Uzbekistan.

"Grape gardens help cities remain greener and ecologically varied. These spaces preserve open space from construction by creating long-term, productive farming plots within cities," says the organization's leader.

Similar to other vintages, those created in urban areas are a result of the earth the plants thrive in, the unpredictability of the weather and the people who care for the fruit. "A bottle of wine represents the beauty, community, landscape and heritage of a city," notes the president.

Mystery Eastern European Grapes

Back in the city, the grower is in a urgent timeline to harvest the vines he cultivated from a plant left in his garden by a Polish family. If the precipitation arrives, then the pigeons may take advantage to attack once more. "Here we have the enigmatic Polish variety," he comments, as he cleans damaged and rotten berries from the shimmering clusters. "The variety remains uncertain what variety they are, but they are certainly hardy. In contrast to noble varieties – Burgundy grapes, Chardonnay and other famous French grapes – you need not spray them with pesticides ... this is possibly a unique cultivar that was developed by the Soviets."

Collective Activities Across the City

The other members of the collective are additionally making the most of sunny interludes between showers of autumn rain. On the terrace overlooking the city's shimmering harbour, where medieval merchant vessels once floated with barrels of wine from Europe and Spain, Katy Grant is collecting her dark berries from approximately 50 vines. "I adore the smell of these vines. It is so reminiscent," she remarks, pausing with a basket of fruit slung over her arm. "It's the scent of Provence when you open the car windows on vacation."

The humanitarian worker, 52, who has spent over two decades working for charitable groups in war-torn regions, inadvertently inherited the grape garden when she moved back to the United Kingdom from Kenya with her household in 2018. She felt an overwhelming duty to maintain the vines in the yard of their new home. "This plot has already endured three different owners," she explains. "I really like the idea of environmental care – of passing this on to someone else so they keep cultivating from the soil."

Terraced Vineyards and Traditional Winemaking

A short walk away, the final two members of the collective are busily laboring on the steep inclines of the local river valley. One filmmaker has established over 150 vines perched on terraces in her wild half-acre garden, which tumbles down towards the muddy River Avon. "Visitors frequently express amazement," she says, gesturing towards the tangled vineyard. "It's astonishing to them they can see grapevine lines in a city street."

Today, the filmmaker, sixty, is picking bunches of dusty purple Rondo grapes from rows of vines arranged along the cliff-side with the assistance of her daughter, Luca. The conservationist, a wildlife and conservation film-maker who has worked on Netflix's nature programming and BBC Two's Gardeners' World, was inspired to plant grapes after observing her neighbor's vines. She has learned that hobbyists can produce interesting, pleasurable traditional vintage, which can sell for more than seven pounds a serving in the increasing quantity of wine bars focusing on minimal-intervention vintages. "It is deeply rewarding that you can truly make quality, natural wine," she says. "It is quite fashionable, but really it's resurrecting an traditional method of producing wine."

"When I tread the grapes, all the natural microorganisms come off the skins and enter the liquid," says the winemaker, partially submerged in a container of tiny stems, pips and red liquid. "This represents how vintages were made traditionally, but industrial wineries introduce preservatives to eliminate the wild yeast and subsequently incorporate a commercially produced yeast."

Challenging Environments and Inventive Approaches

In the immediate vicinity sprightly retiree another cultivator, who inspired Scofield to establish her vines, has gathered his friends to harvest white wine varieties from one hundred vines he has laid out neatly across multiple levels. The former teacher, a Lancashire-born PE teacher who taught at the local university developed a passion for wine on regular visits to Europe. But it is a difficult task to grow Chardonnay grapes in the humidity of the gorge, with temperature fluctuations sweeping in and out from the Bristol Channel. "I aimed to make Burgundian wines here, which is a bit bonkers," admits Reeve with a smile. "Chardonnay is slow-maturing and particularly vulnerable to fungal infections."

"I wanted to make Burgundian wines in this environment, which is rather ambitious"

The unpredictable Bristol climate is not the only problem faced by winegrowers. Reeve has had to erect a fence on

Wayne Johnson
Wayne Johnson

Elara is a seasoned adventurer and travel writer with a passion for exploring remote landscapes and sharing sustainable travel insights.