The Holiday Tree Lights Up Once Again Since the Start of the Conflict
For two years during the conflict in Gaza, all public celebrations marking the holiday season were cancelled in Bethlehem in the occupied West Bank. This place is where the faithful hold the birth of Jesus occurred.
But, following a recent truce, the holy city determined that this year celebrations would make a comeback, as represented by the illumination of its customary, large holiday tree in front of the historic Nativity Church.
"We have endured two difficult years without celebration; no holiday, no employment, no income," remarks Bethlehem Mayor Maher Canawati. "We're all living here from tourism and the tourist trade had fallen to nothing."
The mayor acknowledges that the decision of resuming celebrations faced some controversy, given the ongoing hardship in Gaza – including for those in its tiny Christian community, who often have relatives to Bethlehem.
"Some may say it's not appropriate while others contend it is fitting," Mr Canawati explains. "However, in my heart, I believed that this was the correct action to take because the Christmas season should never be stopped or cancelled. This represents the light of hope for our community."
A Glimmer of Festivity Reappears
Locals – both Christians and Muslims – pose for selfies in front of the tree hung with red and gold baubles at Manger Square. They are accompanied by a handful of international visitors.
Brightly coloured lights now adorn the streets with signs promoting holiday markets and festive events for children.
"We're very happy to see the tree, first thing, and to welcome visitors to Bethlehem and to have the chance to celebrate Christmas in its authentic spirit," says local jewellery designer Nadya Hazboun.
"This place is where it all started, so this is where we can send a message globally about what Christmas truly represents. And now, if the season is calm, then I hope it will bring a nice message for the whole world."
Economic Hopes and Challenges
The neighbouring towns of Beit Jala and Beit Sahour also intend to light Christmas trees in the coming days. Local hotels – which have stood mostly vacant for the past two years – have an influx in reservations from Arab citizens of Israel along with some foreign visitors.
A visitor from Russia, Angelica, is on her second pilgrimage to this region. "In my view everyone needs to come at minimum one time during their lifetime," she states.
"I wish many visitors will soon come back as it is sorrowful without many tourists. The sole aspect that's good is that you don't have lengthy queues – one can visit and see more things. On my prior visit you had to wait in a queue for hours minimum."
For now, the gift shops dotted around Bethlehem experience scant trade, and near the cream-coloured walls of the Nativity Church, which originate from the Fourth Century, tour guides largely stand idle. Prior to the conflict, it was often crammed with people.
"This is a city for tourists; absent visitors there is no livelihood," laments a guide named Hamza. "We aspire to have people returning as in the past: from Europe, the Middle Eastern region, America, Latin American and all over. We start with lighting the tree, and we'll wait."
The Persistent Economic Impact
Over the last two years, unemployment has skyrocketed in Bethlehem. Following the lethal attacks led by Hamas on southern Israel in October 2023 which triggered the war, many thousands of Palestinian labourers from the West Bank region have been prevented from entering Israel and its settlements for work.
At the same time, government employees have been paid just a portion of their wages from the Palestinian Authority (PA) – which governs parts of the West Bank. The Authority relies on tax income collected by Israel, which it is withholding – amounting to 1.76 billion dollars, as reported by the UN's trade and development agency.
Israeli officials state they are retaining these funds due to the fact that the PA makes financial payments to Palestinian prisoners that incentivise attacks on Israelis. The authority – facing global pressure to enact reforms – claims it has recently changed its social welfare system.
A Modest Christmas Season
The grim economic outlook means that for numerous Palestinian Christians, even though there are now public festivities as well as religious services, it will constitute an austere Christmas.
On the periphery of the square, a few customers are waiting to buy hot balls of falafel from a row of shops.
"We are getting ready for the holiday after one of our most challenging times as Palestinians and as a Christian community," says Alaa Salameh, who runs a restaurant called Afteem, a long-established family-run eatery that has witnessed its income plummet. He notes lately numerous families could not even afford falafel – a cheap, traditional snack.
"Christians will try to celebrate but based on their situation," Mr Salameh expects. "Someone who wants to take his kids to a festive event or the theatre or whatever, they lack the money to expend for this celebration."
Hopes for Peace and Prosperity
Within the grotto beneath the church, a resident follows a small Indian tour group, bending down near a silver star that indicates the location where tradition states Jesus was born and lighting a light nearby.
With tensions still high throughout the area, Bethlehem residents state they are praying for tranquility – and wishing for visitors to return to the location where it is believed where Christmas started.